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[av_heading heading=’ NO FILTER | A beginner’s guide to Iloilo street food ‘ tag=’h3′ style=’blockquote modern-quote’ size=” subheading_active=’subheading_below’ subheading_size=’15’ padding=’10’ color=” custom_font=”]
BY RHICK LARS VLADIMER ALBAY
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Saturday, April 22, 2017
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I’VE always brought it upon myself to ask hard-hitting questions: Where’s the best place to enjoy skewered, grilled meat? Who sells the best bibingka in Iloilo City? What should I try if I’m craving for the traditional lumpia but want to be adventurous?
Mainly, though, I ask myself: If I had to give my culinary hero, Anthony Bourdain, a unique tour around the city, where would I take the king for a “no-reservations” dining? With much pondering and self-questioning, I’ve come up with this short itinerary.
‘BETAMAX’ AND ‘ISAW’ AT DON BENITO
It’s always bothered me a bit that no one thought it macabre to sell grilled entrails and congealed blood in front of one of the busiest hospitals in the city. It’s almost the perfect setup for an ’80s aswang movie or a 2000s zombie thriller, pending a cast of hapless victims. Admittedly, the morbid thought has done very little to dissuade my appetite.
A one-stop shop for those craving for any form of skewered meat, this go-to spot for hungry students and hospital workers alike has taught us that there’s no experience quite like eating rice from a cellophane bag while biting grilled pieces of tocino from a stick.
My personal favorites are of course isaw and betamax, which for those unfamiliar with street food jargon are chicken intestines impaled on a stick and the blood drained from dead livestock cut into cubes, respectively. Have fun pretending you’re the newest addition to “The Walking Dead” lineup, all the while satisfying your carnivorous hunger with the reassuring thought of being just a short walk away from an operating room.
BANGUS LUMPIA AT MOLO PLAZA
I admit I can often be melodramatic, but in no way am I over exaggerating when I say that trying the bangus lumpia at Molo Plaza is a life-changing experience.
Growing up preferring red bloody cuts of meat and averse to the charms of milkfish chanos chanos, biting into this underappreciated treat makes me question where I lie on the vegetarian-pescatarian-carnivore scale. Located on a street corner between Molo Supermart and the old Andok’s Manokan, this hidden gem remains unheard of to most Ilonggos.
A new spin on the classic Filipino dish, this lovely creation takes the crispy wrapper of the lumpia we’ve grown to love and fills it with a generous helping of fresh and perfectly seasoned bangus. It offers melt-in-your-mouth richness that you would not expect of street food, and at P10 for three pieces, it’s a hunger-satisfying bargain.
JO ANN’S FISH BALL
There’s no other street food in Iloilo City as worshipped and well-loved as Jo Ann’s fish ball. Ask any respectable foodie or culinary expert in the city, they will surely be familiar with this local delicacy. It is also found at Molo Plaza but now has a branch on Jalandoni Street in Jaro. Where do I apply for a franchise, right?
The many disciples of the famous Ilonggo fishbolan will fawn of its bountiful use of real fresh fish flakes, its unparalleled taste and crunchy exterior. But for me, its main draw is its sauces tailor-made for any and all taste buds. With four dip options ranging from the traditional sweet to teary-eyed spicy, Jo Ann’s fish ball has got your back … and your stomach.
Mix and match all you like. My choice of dip depends on my mood. Looking for a sweet-and-salty ending to your fun and productive day? Opt for sauce No. 1, rich and flavorful. Want to recreate the Cannes-winning performance of Jaclyn Jose at the end of “Ma Rosa”? Brave on fuego sauce numero quatro and let those tears fall.
BINGKAHAN SA MOHON
“How about dessert?” asks our hypoglycemic friend at one corner. Don’t worry, we haven’t forgotten about you. Don’t call your hematologist just yet. If our three other efforts in culinary exploration have yet to fill your gut to maximum, we have a treat for you.
The bibingka — why let this beloved Filipino kakanin, synonymous with Christmas and Simbang Gabi, be relegated to just the yuletide when you can enjoy it all year round? Undoubtedly, the best bibingka in town can be found in Mohon, in a small pop-up stall run by the same family since the early 50s.
Smooth and milky, comparing the bingka of Bingkahan sa Mohon to the half-burnt frisbees sold in front of most churches would be sacrilege. Made from only the best ingredients, its silky texture and rich sweetness makes it a sought after dessert, beckoning customers to buy whole plates, rendering this Ilonggo delicacy hard to come by and almost a rare find. But remain patient and vigilant and you’ll get to savor its matchless taste.
Alas, there’s many more I’d like to add to this list: the mouth-challenging turons near Amigo Mall, the original unpretentious Popoy’s batchoy at the Iloilo Central Market, not to mention the wonders of boiled eggs coated in generous helpings of batter.
What with the landscape of Iloilo City’s streets changing every day, there’s always a new food crawl just a short walk away. (For photos, visit my blog, maverhick.blogspot.com/PN)
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