BY MARY JOY CAVAÑAS
“Kapamahaw ka na?” “Nakakaon ka na?” “Kaon ta!”
These are the warm invitations extended by the Ilonggos, a people whose love for food is matched only by the richness of their culinary heritage.
In the heart of Iloilo City, a place steeped in culture and history, the art of Ilonggo cuisine flourishes, recently earning the prestigious title of a UNESCO City of Gastronomy — the first in the Philippines.
The essence of Ilonggo cuisine, a tapestry of flavors that has positioned Iloilo as the “Food Haven of the Philippines”, is celebrated both locally and internationally.
This culinary landscape is kept vibrant by the hands and hearts of individuals like Chef Rafael “Tibong” Jardeleza Jr., a luminary in the world of Ilonggo gastronomy and a bearer of a cherished culinary lineage.
Chef Tibong’s masterpiece, “Flavors of Iloilo”, is a culinary anthology – 80 Ilonggo cuisine recipes, both heirloom and modern – that weaves together a delectable array of appetizers, soups, meats, seafood, vegetables, noodles, rice, and desserts.
This celebrated work, honored with the title of “Best Book on Food” at the 41st National Book Awards in 2023, serves as a bridge to the soul of Ilonggo cuisine, featuring both traditional family recipes, and Chef Tibong’s innovative creations.
Within the pages of his book, one can explore the diverse palette of Ilonggo dishes, from the vibrant Kilawin pickled pork skin salad), and the comforting Tinu-om nga Manok (Chicken soup cooked in packets of banana leaves), to the iconic La Paz Batchoy Miki Noodle Soup) and the sweet serenade of Baye-baye (Pounded toasted young rice with coconut). Each recipe is a chapter in the story of Iloilo, shared with the world through Chef Tibong’s passion and dedication.
“I have worked for the past 20 to 30 years. I didn’t do this in one day. It’s really hard work,” Chef Tibong reflects, acknowledging the years of dedication behind his achievements.
His journey, supported by a community of friends and fellow culinary enthusiasts, is a testament to the enduring spirit of Ilonggo cuisine.
For Chef Tibong – a recipient of the Manila Bulletin UPLIFT Award 2023 for advocating Ilonggo heritage cuisine – food transcends mere sustenance; it is a voyage into the heart of Ilonggo culture and tradition.
“Re-discovering our heritage and culture is so fun. (But) it’s not just about our food; it’s about our kultura, sa tradisyon. It’s more about our way of life, of knowing ourselves,” he muses, delving into the profound connection between cuisine and cultural identity.
In advocating for Ilonggo heritage cuisine, Chef Tibong emphasizes the simplicity and authenticity that define Ilonggo dishes.
“We, Ilonggos, enjoy our food,” he explains, highlighting the intrinsic value and appeal of Ilonggo cuisine.
He added: “The Ilonggo heritage cuisine has a hundred, or even thousands, of different dishes we can present when people come to visit Western Visayas or Iloilo.”
The recognition of Iloilo as a Gastronomic City by UNESCO is a moment of pride for Chef Tibong, yet he believes the true essence of this accolade lies in the everyday joy of Ilonggo dining.
“Ilonggos love to eat. Gastronomy is us. It’s about our love for food,” he asserts, emphasizing the intrinsic gastronomic culture of Iloilo.
Chef Tibong’s call to support local eateries and carinderias is a reminder of the collective role in preserving and promoting Ilonggo culinary heritage.
“When you support the carinderias and eateries, the small-scale industry, that’s a big thing. That’s encouraging the spirit of people to start more businesses. It’s you; it’s not me alone who should promote our heritage,” he encourages, underscoring the community’s role in sustaining culinary tradition.
In Iloilo, the adage that “the way to a person’s heart is through their stomach” takes on a deeper meaning. It is through the shared meals, prepared with love and steeped in tradition, that Iloilo truly becomes the “City of Love”, offering a taste of peace and harmony to all who visit./PN
